Sewing Notes

Some of our very best fabrics for bras can be tricky to sew. Use these tips and tricks to get the best result:

• Use a Schmetz Microtex needle in sizes 80/12 or 90/14
• Use a smooth polyester thread like Superior Threads So Fine or Magnifico or Mettler Metrosene.
• Increase your stitch length to 3.0 to 3.5. I use about 3.3.
• Make sure your entire presser foot is on the fabric. Move the needle to get your 1/4" seam.
• Use a small piece of paper under the leading edge of your seam to prevent it from being sucked down into the throat plate. Then tear the paper off when the seam is done. Some people like tearaway stabilizer instead of paper.
• Play around a bit with tension. My machine likes 3-4. Other machines may need other settings. 
• Use Wonder Clips to hold your fabric together. I like the Mini Wonder Clips for the small pieces and curves in a bra. For some fabrics you can use glass head silk pins.
• One of our customers had great success using entomology pins! She writes that " they are long and very fine stainless steel perfect for the job!! The machine also sews over them with no damage!!"
• Place a spacer under the presser foot to keep it even when sewing hooks and eyes.
• Many newer machines have lovely stitch pattern alternatives to a three-step zigzag. Play around! 
• I find a small rotary cutter the best tool for cutting out patterns. 
• Use a marker to indicate match points and other landmarks. Our disappearing ink marker is a great choice. Don't make clips into your tiny seam allowance.
• Tame floppy jerseys with starch before cutting and sewing. Saturate the fabric and let it dry overnight. Then cut and sew a very manageable fabric and wash it out before you wear it.
• Cut stretch fabric a bit smaller than stable fabric when you're using them both together. In this way your stretch fabric won't bag.